Architext: Walking Between Low Tide and High Tide

The trailhead led to a public beach but it was unclear how far you could walk along the coast.

“Can people walk along the coast or is this private property?”
“Technically... legally, you can walk along the whole island on the land exposed at low tide.”
“Cool.” Armed with reassurance from a random local we continued trespassing.

Whereas rich people find tax loopholes to evade taxes with offshore accounts, poor fuckers like me relish in walking in the legal loophole known as the intertidal zone, the oceanfront area between low and high tide. We were on Martha’s Vineyard, the playground for the rich, walking through the backyards of seaside houses of famous people like Jackie Onassis and Obama. No matter how rich these people were, no matter how incredulous their expressions were when you passed their gaze, I found comfort knowing no one can buy the intertidal zone or the ocean.

Martha’s Vineyard is a beautiful place that is hard to comprehend because most of the land is privately owned. The only way to understand the island is to hike its trails... mostly easements on private property set up by the Martha’s Vineyard Commission and intertidal paths. Piecing together a collage of obscure fragmented walks not only gives a sense of the site, but provides glimpses on how the other half lives. Luxury million dollar homes, antique cars, bocce courts, and equestrian courses.

For this experience I have Ted Kennedy to thank. The same young senator who drove his car drunk off Chappaquidick bridge fleeing the scene, (scandalously leaving a young aide to drown in 1969), was responsible for pushing the federal land trust bill that ultimately led to the creation of the Martha’s Vineyard Commission in 1972. After 30 years, nearly 3100 acres have been conserved (or 5% of the land area on the island). The commission’s revenue – generated by a 2% public surcharge on most real estate transfers funds the land conservation efforts. Kennedy had the foresight to preserve these types of wandering routes through Martha’s Vineyard. “The changes that are basically irreversible are the ones that come from ill-planned development,” he told the Vineyard Gazette in a 1986 interview.

With a week left before school started we found a great deal in tony Edgartown - or so we thought. When we arrived, we realized why our house was priced to rent so cheap. The house was situated on the outskirts of town behind the county jail.

Our house wasn’t that bad. The owner added fake plastic flowers in the window boxes to give the structure a sense of dignity. It was much better than the chain link fence with barbed wire of the neighboring prison yard.

At night we slept on mattresses on the floor, by day we walked in town like interlopers. The intertidal zone in Edgartown extended to the public brick cobblestone sidewalks. As an architect, it was easy to pick up the symbols of wealth. White picket fences announcing private property. Beautifully landscaped hydrangea bushes that required massive amounts of manual immigrant labor to upkeep. Continuous crisp white clapboard siding. Expansive porches with chair swings. Ornamentation flourishes around the windows. Peeking within the open doors and windows, I could see solid wood wainscoting, and ‘I kid you not’ black servants working for their white masters.

For the price of a ferry ride, a wandering look into the lives of the rich and famous is free.